Guatemala Church Drawings Guatemala Church Drawings Easy

The yellow church of San Andres Xecul is an iconic image of Guatemala
The yellow church of San Andres Xecul is an iconic image of Guatemala

If you search for images of Guatemala, it won't be long before you stumble across a photo of a fabulous ornate church, its façade painted sunflower yellow and decorated with detailed mouldings of saints and plants in vivid red, green and blue.

The eye-catching patterned church sits in a cute town plaza, and in many of the photos you see online, its vivid design is offset by a bluebird sky, making that mustard-yellow front glow all the brighter. It's the sort of photo that makes you want to find wherever it is and go there to see it for yourself.

So of course that's exactly what I did.

The yellow facade of the church looks west over the main plaza in San Andres Xecul Guatemala
The yellow facade looks west over the main plaza in San Andres Xecul Guatemala

It turns out that the photogenic church is in the small town of San Andres Xecul (pronounced 'Shey-cool'), in the highlands of Guatemala. It's not far from the city of Quetzaltenango, and since that's where I happened to be living and volunteering for a month, it was easy enough for me to grab a couple of friends and head over there to check out its gorgeous architecture for myself.

But when I searched online for more information I couldn't find much and I had to hunt around. So when I got back I thought I'd collate everything I had discovered about San Andres Xecul and its gorgeous church into the blog post I would have wanted to find before I went.

And here it is!

Visiting San Andrés Xecul Guatemala
Visiting San Andrés Xecul Guatemala

Where is the yellow church of San Andres Xecul?

San Andres Xecul is a small highland town in the Totonicapán department of Guatemala. It's about 30 minutes by car from Quetzaltenango (known locally as Xela), Guatemala's second largest city.

The church itself stands in the town square, which sits uphill about a 10-minute tuk-tuk ride from the main highway. The eye-bending yellow façade faces west towards the mountains, and if you stand beside the church and look up the main street, uphill and directly opposite you can see a second, smaller yellow church, painted in the same style, like a mini mirror image. This is the Iglesia del Calvario, about which more below.

Note that some blogs refer the main church as the Iglesia del Calvario but that's incorrect. The big garish yellow church is simply the Iglesia de San Andres Xecul and the little one up the hill is the Calvary Church.

History of San Andres Xecul Guatemala

The recorded history of San Andres Xecul is a little sketchy, but the town is known to have been a Maya settlement since pre-Hispanic times, when it was known simply as Xecul. In the Mam Maya language, 'Xe' means below and 'Cul' means hill, giving the town the fitting name 'Below the hill'.

It was the Spanish who dedicated the town to the apostle Saint Andrew – making the name San Andrés de Xecul.

San Andres Xecul sits under several hills in the highlands of Guatemala
San Andres Xecul sits under several hills in the highlands of Guatemala

At the end of the 17th century the Historian Fuentes y Guzmán described San Andrés Xecul as a town "located on some hills and plains, with an easy road to undertake", while the Spanish Archbishop of Guatemala Pedro Cortés Larranz stated in 1770 that "it is a small town, the language spoken is Quiché, the roads are good, there are no schools for children in any of the towns, there are many cattle, people are well dressed, and there is excessive idolatry, and the Indians are little correctable".

In 1820 the indigenous people of the region, including the townsfolk of San Andrés Xecul, revolted against the excessively high taxes demanded by the Spanish colonial authorities. The rebels, led by Atanasio Tzul and Lucas Aguilar, managed to establish an independent state in Totonicapán with a free indigenous government – but it only lasted for three weeks before a militia of 1000 men marched from Quetzaltenango to retake the area, and the rebels surrendered. Tzul was imprisoned but was pardoned the following year.

The municipality of Totonicapán was officially established on August 8, 1858.

Read more: Backpacking in Guatemala: All You Need To Know Before You Go

Looking back down the main street of San Andres Xecul towards the famous yellow church
Looking back down the main street of San Andres Xecul towards the famous yellow church

History of La Iglesia de San Andrés Xecul

History does not relate when exactly the yellow church of San Andres Xecul was constructed, but it's believed to have been built sometime in the mid-17th century. According to one local legend, 'A man came at night to build the church, but when he woke up it was already finished.'

The cross on the front records the years 1900-1901, but I couldn't find out what these dates refer to.

In 2016 the church was restored and repainted, and this year is commemorated on the façade, just above the cross.

Read more: A Perfect Guatemala Itinerary In 10 Days, 2 Weeks Or 3 Weeks

The date of 2016 on the front of the San Andres Xecul church records when it was restored
The date of 2016 on the front of the San Andres Xecul church records when it was restored

What's so special about the yellow church of San Andres Xecul?

Made famous for being on the cover of the 4th (2010) edition of the Lonely Planet Guatemala guide, the church at San Andres Xecul is not your average Catholic house of worship.

Far removed from the forbidding grandeur of traditional churches or the monochrome gothic magnificence of European cathedrals, this is a church that screams joie de vivre.

That's because although the Spanish brought Catholicism to Guatemala (and forced the local people to convert), the indigenous people still hold tightly to their long-held Maya traditions and beliefs. Religion here is a Guatemalan-colonial hybrid – a fusion of sombre Catholic beliefs and vibrant Maya customs.

And that's clearly visible on the front of this remarkable church, where saints and angels crowd in side by side with Maya symbols like corn, fruit, and jaguars.

The front of the church at San Andrés de Xecul is a riot of vivid images including saints and plants
The front of the church is a riot of vivid images including saints and two jaguars at the top

What designs can you see on La Iglesia de San Andrés de Xecul?

The ornate design of the church is said to have been inspired by the colourful patterned 'huipiles' – the embroidered tops – that local women wear.

The bright yellow is said to represent life and food in Maya culture, because it's the colour of corn, the Maya staple ingredient. The vivid red is another key Maya colour, representing the blood of life and the colour of the sunrise as each new day begins.

Saints, angels and flowers all appear on the front of the church
Angels and flowers also appear on the front of the church

If you look closely at the front you can see a exuberant mix of some 200 Christian and Maya figures, including:

  • Two jaguars clawing at a scratching post – jaguars are often depicted in Maya tradition and may represent the power of the Maya kings.
  • Winged angels, bearded saints, and the figure of Jesus Christ in blue and red robes
  • Corn cobs, green leaves and curling vines, as well as twisted columns decorated with bright red flowers – recalling Maya people's strong connection to nature.
  • In the centre a cross reads 'Jesus Cristo Dios y hombre, vive, reina y impera' – Jesus Christ, God and man, lives, rules and reigns.
  • Other blog posts refer to birds and monkeys on the church, but I couldn't see them!

You can't see it from the front, but the church even has a rainbow-coloured dome, which you can appreciate if you hike up the hill and view the town from above (more about this hike below).

San Andres Xecul church showing its colourful dome
When you see the San Andres Xecul church from above you can admire its colourful dome

I visited on a Sunday when a service was in full swing, so I was not able to go inside the church. But photos online show a much more traditional Catholic interior, with polished wooden pews and images of Christ and the Virgin Mary.

Worshippers standing outside during a service at the San Andres Xecul Totonicapán church
On the Sunday I visited there was a service taking place, so I could not go inside

Other things to see in San Andres Xecul Totonicapán

While the famous yellow church is the main reason visitors come to San Andres Xecul, seeing it won't take up much of your time. However, there are a few other things to see and do in the town to make this into a worthwhile half-day trip from Quetzaltenango.

Calvary Church / Iglesia del Calvario

As you arrive in San Andres Xecul and walk uphill towards the plaza, you'll see the narrow main street sloping steeply uphill away from the plaza and, at the top, another church, identical in style to the main church, but much smaller.

The Iglesia del Calvario is like a mini version of the San Andres Xecul church
The Iglesia del Calvario is like a mini version of the San Andres Xecul church

This is the Iglesia del Calvario, or Calvary Church. Calvary churches are often found up hills: the 'Calvary' is the name for the hill outside ancient Jerusalem where Jesus was crucified, and many calvary churches feature a steep walk up with stations of the cross along the route; worshippers follow this route to represent the journey Jesus made on his way to be crucified.

But, here in San Andres Xecul, you'll again find Maya and Catholic traditions mixed together: right next door to the Calvary Church is the Altar Maya El Calvario – a Maya altar where local people come to perform traditional ceremonies.

Maya people performing ceremonies at the Altar Maya El Calvario, right next to the church
Maya people performing ceremonies at the Altar Maya El Calvario, right next to the church

Hike the Sendero Pakotzij trail to the San Andres Xecul viewpoint

Another very worthwhile thing to do while you're in San Andres Xecul is the Sendero Pakotz'ij hike. This is a purpose-built short trail that takes you up from the town to a viewpoint with fabulous panoramic views over the surrounding area.

To find the start of the trail, after you've visited the Iglesia del Calvario, continue following the main street uphill. After only a few minutes more walking you'll see a path leading off to the left, clearly marked with a sign saying 'Sendero Pakotz'i'j'.

Visiting San Andres Xecul, Guatemala: Home Of The Famous Yellow Church
The start of the San Andres Xecul hike is clearly marked with a sign that says Sendero Pakotzij

The path is well-maintained and easy to follow, with steps leading uphill and, every so often, a bench to rest on. Each one has been hand painted with colourful designs representing Guatemalan themes: people, towns, birds, jaguars, churches and temples.

It's a steep uphill climb for about 45 minutes to reach the viewpoint, but the Sendero Pakotz'ij hike is well worth the effort.

At the top you'll find a viewing platform with spectacular views over the valley and town below. You'll be able to see the church and the town square, looking very tiny but no less bright yellow from this distance.

The viewing platform offers stunning views over San Andres Xecul and the surrounding area
The viewing platform offers stunning views over San Andres Xecul and the surrounding area

Just below the viewing platform is an open space with a yellow-painted shrine and a cross – another hybrid Maya-Catholic holy place where, if you're lucky, you'll be able to witness people performing ceremonies. When we visited on a Sunday, there was no one there apart from a few other visitors, but the burnt remains of previous offerings were clearly visible in front of the shrine.

Above your head, plastic bunting rattles in the breeze with a constant fluttering that amplifies the sound of the wind and gives the area a really atmospheric feel.

Sadly, as with so many of the places I've hiked to in Guatemala, there is a lot of litter on the path and at the viewpoint, but you have to try to ignore it and focus on the beauty of the place.

The view from the top of the Sendero Pakotzij hike in San Andres Xecul Guatemala
The view from the top of the Sendero Pakotzij hike is spectacular

If you've got the stamina for a steep uphill 45-minute hike I'd definitely recommend including the Sendero Pakotzij hike in your Guatemala itinerary when you visit San Andres Xecul.

When you get back to the main street, you'll pass a shop selling frozen mango or banana dipped in chocolate and then rolled in nuts, coconut or sprinkles. These are a traditional Guatemalan dessert known as Chocobananos and are an excellent treat to reward yourself after your hike – especially since they only cost Q2.50 (about 25p).

I recommend a Chocobanana as a reward after completing the San Andres Xecul hike
I recommend a Chocobanana as a reward after completing the San Andres Xecul hike

San Andres Xecul market

Opposite the church and along the street next to it is a small market where you can buy snacks, fruit and vegetables. The main market day is Friday, when the market is much bigger and spills into the square and all along the steep streets that lead away from the town centre. If you like visiting markets (as I do!) then Friday is the day to go!

Read more: Chichicastenango Market in Guatemala: A Photo Guide

Fruit seller in the San Andres Xecul Market
Fruit seller in the San Andres Xecul Market

San Andres Xecul cemetery

Like many Guatemalan highland towns, San Andres Xecul has a cemetery full of brightly-painted tombs. I visited the cemeteries in Sololá and Chichicastenango and I love the vivid colours and the way Guatemalan people celebrate the lives of their loved ones in joyful shades of blue and pink, rather than the sombre grey memorials we have at home.

If you haven't been to a colourful Guatemalan cemetery yet, it might be worth swinging by the one in San Andres Xecul to take a look.

San Andres Xecul cemetery as seen from the Sendero Pakotzij viewpoint
San Andres Xecul cemetery as seen from the Sendero Pakotzij viewpoint

How to get to San Andrés Xecul from Xela

The best way to get to San Andres Xecul is by taxi or bus from Quetzaltenango (Xela).

I travelled with three friends, and we were able to get an Uber from central Xela for just Q50 (£5 or $6.15). The journey took around 30 minutes and we were dropped off in the main street just a short walk from the church.

If you prefer to take public transport, you'll need to make your way to the Minerva Bus Terminal and then get a chicken bus. You can walk to Minerva Terminal in about 30 minutes from Zone 1, or you can get an Uber for about Q10 (£1), or a public microbus which you can pick up on the street and costs just Q2.50 (25p).

Read more: The Complete Guide To Xela Guatemala: Things To See And Do

'Chicken buses' at Minerva Terminal in Xela Guatemala
'Chicken buses' at Minerva Terminal in Xela, Guatemala

When you get off the 'micro' you'll then need to push your way through the vast and crowded Minerva market to get to the bus terminal, which is why I recommend getting an Uber instead (or just getting a taxi the whole way to San Andres Xecul).

Minerva bus terminal isn't really a 'bus terminal' as you might picture it, more a large open area with dozens of buses arriving and departing, people selling snacks, and a lot of shouting! You'll need to ask around and find the bus going to San Andres Xecul.

If you can, try to get one that's going all the way up to the town itself, as some buses may drop you on the Autopista Los Altos main road at San Cristobal Totonicapán (point A on the map below), which means you'll then need to make your own way on foot or by tuk-tuk up the hill to San Andres Xecul (B) – a journey of 4 km or about 45 minutes on foot.

How to get from San Cristobal Totonicapan to San Andres de Xecul
Some buses will drop you off on the main road at San Cristobal Totonicapan

Returning to Xela from San Andres Xecul Guatemala

To return, get another chicken bus from close to the main square, all the way back to Xela. They're not very frequent, and you may have to wait a while for the bus to fill up.

When we visited on a Sunday, there were no buses going back to Xela from the town centre. Instead, we got a tuk-tuk (Q5 per person) down the hill to the main road at San Cristobal Tontonicapán, where there is a large bus shelter. From here chicken buses pass regularly going to Xela and cost Q10.

The bus stop at San Cristobal Tontonicapán is right on the main road and plenty of buses pass by on their way to Xela
The bus stop at San Cristobal Tontonicapán is right on the main road and plenty of buses pass by on their way to Xela

Some buses go to the Rotonda bus station, some go to Minerva Terminal – you can get either. The Rotonda is in the east of the city and from there it's about a 20 minute walk back to the Parque Central.

If you get a bus going to Minerva Terminal, it's quicker to get off at the corner of 7a Calle and 19 Avenida and walk back to Zone 1 from there (again, about 20 minutes' walk).

La Rotonda in Xela as seen from the window of my bus from Guatemala City
La Rotonda in Xela as seen from the window of my bus from Guatemala City

Where to stay in San Andres Xecul

Most people visit San Andres Xecul on a day trip from Quetzaltenango (Xela), so there isn't really a huge amount of choice when it comes to places to stay. Since you can see and do everything there is in San Andres Xecul in half a day, I recommend basing yourself in Xela, where there are loads of accommodation options and places to eat.

My top pick – and where I lived for over a month in Xela – is the gorgeous Mucha Arte Hostal, which has just six huge rooms around a charming central courtyard, with free breakfast, tea and coffee, good hot showers, and decent wifi. And at the time I visited I got all this for less than £20 a night.

My huge room at Mucha Hotel in Xela
My huge room at Mucha Hotel in Xela

Where to next?

If you enjoyed this, you might want to check out some of my other related posts!

  • The Colourful Market In Solola Guatemala: A Photo Guide
  • The Thrilling Volcan De Acatenango Hike In Antigua Guatemala
  • A Review Of Villa Bokeh, A Luxury Hotel In Antigua Guatemala
  • Beautiful Frescoes, Graffiti and Street Art in Naples, Italy
  • An Unhelpful Guide To… Aztec Ruins In Mexico

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